Wednesday, November 2, 2011

Cultural Clashes, or More Anecdotes from my Life


Um, where to start?  How about with the humorous goings on of today?  To do that, I should back up a little and explain where my 6th grade class is.  This is the one where half the kids know English and half don’t.  I had split them up, but a week or two ago my co-teacher said the other half of the kids ask when I will teach them, so I had to combine the two groups.  At the time I was too tired to argue and just have not felt up to fighting for kids who didn’t seem to appreciate what I was trying to do for them.  So, now I have one group.  On Friday, since we were essentially done with chapter one, I gave them a quiz, not for a grade, but just to see where they were.  As usual, they “helped” each other, but I tried to keep that to a minimum.  The results were better than I expected.  Some of the kids who had never learned English before were clearly learning something, and the ones that were totally lost were so mostly because they misbehaved in class and put forth no effort to learn.  Yesterday, my co-teacher had to sub for another class, so I had to teach alone.  The kids were incredibly noisy, and I confiscated a few notes, balls of paper, and pen parts (used for spit wads).  Today the teacher was back, and I gave my test.  First, I made all the kids get out a fresh piece of paper (I have yet to see the copier at our school, and teachers don’t really copy stuff like they do in the States).  Then I moved them around the room to make it harder to look at eachother’s papers.  One of my better students even asked me in Russian if he could sit next to a friend and work together with him since the friend didn’t know English very well.  (Their ideas on academic integrity are very different from America’s.)  I then told them NO TALKING.  After the first question, another teacher came in for a few minutes for something.  I saw a few kids peeking in books or notebooks, so I proceeded to collect all the kids’ books.  At least one kid looked upset.  She just didn’t know the answer so needed to look it up.  How could I take away her notebook?  Again, they have different ideas.

The quiz proceeded fairly well.  About half the kids would ask me or my co-teacher if an answer was correct, but I ignored them.  A few kids tried to cheat, but it was obvious.  I would have gotten more upset with them but they did not find out much, mostly because their knowledge of who to cheat off of is of the same quality as their English.  After the quiz, I tried to teach them basic commands in English so that I can yell at them in English (Sit down!  Read! Turn around! Be quiet! Write!).  In the process of my lesson (which most of the kids seemed to like), I collected a few notes, as usual.  Today, just out of curiosity to see what nonsense they write during English class, I asked my host family to translate.  My host mom started talking about Google and websites and then asked where I got the notes and what they were.  Apparently some of the boys have been looking up internet porn.  Of course this is the note I ask to get translated…awkward.

In addition to that delightful bit of teaching, I came home today to see smoke billowing from our yard.  My host dad was making homemade vodka.  That is actually awesome.   

Being female, I was not asked to try any.  My host mom also made borscht today.  It might be one of my favorite foods now, especially on a cold winter day.

Speaking of food (which I love to do), last Thursday was an excellent Georgian day for me.  One of my 2nd graders turned 7, so she had a birthday party in class.  I got invited, score!  Her aunt (because her parents live in Spain) made a huge cake that reminded me of Cinderella. 

She also made khachapuri and brought in chocolate, persimmons, grapes, soda, and homemade liqueur.  I watched with interest as she set things up.  Each kid got some khachapuri, fruit, and cake.  (Interesting side note: Georgians cut big round cakes like this in an ingenious fashion.  They cut out a circle in the center and then make the usual slices, so you don’t have that awkward super narrow part that makes plating the cake so difficult.)  You have to toast when you drink alcohol here. Thankfully, they gave the kids soda instead.  Still, watching 2nd graders toast to each other is adorable.  After the kids left for the day (at the end of that period), the teachers and aunt set up a table for themselves.  We feasted on the food and drank the homemade liqueur.  I have no idea what it was, but it was good.  We also toasted the girl (and ourselves, among other things).  The 2nd grade teacher translated most of her toast for me.  She toasted the girl, talking about how good of girl she was, how she was a big girl (it’s been too long since that was viewed as a positive in my world, so that threw me for a loop at first), and wishing her long life, health, and especially marriage to a Georgian husband.  They start these kids early on these ideas.
Khachapuri-sour cheese and bread, also known as the delicious reason I first started to love Georgia
After stuffing myself, I went home, fended off lunch, and then watched with interest as my host mom started making dough and meat.  I was in luck!  My host family made khinkali-the most Georgian of Georgian dishes. I had tried them out before, but this was my first time eating homemade khinkali.  They even let me try to make a few sorry looking khinkalis.  I again stuffed myself.  It was a banner day for me in Georgia.


Khinkali in progress

Saturday was also a great day.  The weather here has been hovering in the 40s.  We have a stove in the kitchen that keeps that room toasty now, so I spend most of my days there.  Nighttime in my unheated room had gotten unbearable.  Thus, I went on Saturday to Tbilisi to buy a space heater.  I spent a wonderful day wandering around the market, checking off things on my shopping list.  When I was headed to a mall to buy an English book for my sister, I ran into one of the guys from my training group.  This is what I love about Georgia.  I was not anywhere touristy or even prominent.  He was as shocked to meet me as I was him.  I took him with me to the mall to show him there was more than just clothing stores out of our price range there.  He informed me of the wonderful news that the CARDS WON!  Or, as Grandpa Sam would say, the good guys won.  I don’t care about many sports, but it would be impossible for me not to be a Cards fan.  Would have loved to be in St. Louis on Friday night.  Regardless, I am in Georgia and soaking that up.  We ended up meeting up with more friends at the market, and I had a delightful time in addition to getting some shopping done.  I then came home to the best part of the day.

While I was shopping in Tbilisi, my host mom called me to say that a package had arrived for me at the police station.  I was shocked, for I had no idea who could have sent it.  I knew my mom had sent a package, but that had been barely 2 weeks ago and had been in New Jersey the last time we had checked.  I was also thrilled that a package had arrived.  Georgia’s postal system recently was privatized, but in general, they don’t have one like we do.  Most people, when they need to send things across the country, put it on a marshrutka (mini bus) that’s headed in that direction and tell the recipient to be there for that marshrutka.  It costs a few lari and seems to be fairly efficient.  So, things like addresses are sometimes hard to uncover, since no one knows them.  There is no mailman who brings your mail each day.  I’ve heard lots of stories about how packages from the US get delivered eventually, so I was curious to see how my mom’s package would appear, if at all.  I asked her to put my host dad’s name on it.  Since he’s a cop, they sent the package to the police station.  It got from Springfield to Manglisi in 15 days.  I was floored and rather excited.  I was expecting it to take at least a month and maybe only make it as far as Tbilisi.  Instead, it was waiting for me when I got home, so I opened it in front of my family and neighbor.  It felt like the best Christmas ever.  We all oohed and ahhed over the Reeese’s (they were gone quickly), perfume (my host family was so excited about samples of perfume), nail polish, a sweater, other American food, stickers, and other things my mom had thought to put in the package.  From practical things like batteries and face wash to fun things like play-doh, my mom did an awesome job, and America felt a little closer. That plus the space heater made for a good night.

The next day, thinking that there were still Reese’s left and craving one, I looked in my box.  I did not find any, so I looked around my room.  I still found none, even though I was sure there were still some left from the night before.  I freaked out a little, thinking my host family had taken the candy from my room, to the extent that I went into the kitchen to ask them if anyone had eaten them.  I got negative responses.  I could have just miscalculated, but I went through and could not find a few other snacks.  At this point, I was frustrated and angry and realizing how limited I was by my lack of Georgian.  They could have merely been confused by me being upset over candy we had eaten the night before or they could have been talking about how one of them had eaten the rest of the candy.  I have no idea.  I was disappointed about the Reese’s, but more so, I was upset about the idea of my family taking my stuff.  I share with my family a lot-I frequently let them use my internet, camera, and DVDs.  They generally ask about these things, and I am usually happy to share.  I still have this American sense that my stuff is my property.  Georgians don’t have such individualistic ideas about property, especially within a family.  My sisters and mom share clothes, even though they are different sizes.  I’m not 100% sure that my host family even took stuff from my room, but just in case, I decided to start locking up my stuff.  Of course, I don’t lock up the valuable stuff like my camera, but rather the stuff I don’t want to share, like M&Ms and peanut butter.  Priorities.  I think this is a cultural issue rather than a moral one (while in America we would see this as stealing, in Georgia, since I am part of the family, this is normal), and during our cultural training, we discussed similar situations. 

It bothered me for about a day.  I also knew I was spending all day on the computer so that they would not ask to borrow my modem because I did not feel like sharing.  Then I got over my craving for Reese’s and rationality set in.  I will be able to eat Reese’s for the rest of my life, but they won’t.  I also started feeling convicted about being a “cheerful giver”.  Normally I am, but lately I had started feeling slightly bitter about it. I think a lot of volunteers struggle with similar issues in a host family.  Yes, the family has opened its home to us and feeds us.  They treat us well, often serving us (since Georgians are so hospitable) and taking good care of us.  Most boys don’t do laundry, clean a dish, or maybe even know where their food comes from for the length of their homestay.  We also pay them each month to offset costs.  So, when host families without internet or a computer want to use the volunteer’s, they volunteer has a choice.  They can share or they can make sure their lifeline to the outside world does not get broken or a virus, etc.  I generally share with my family, but definitely needed that reminder that 1)I’m an American who will enjoy a lifetime of luxuries and 2)I’m a Christian who has been incredibly blessed and have no room to begrudge people what they ask of me (especially a wonderful host family).  So, I’m trying to be better about that.  I still have a lock on my suitcase because I think it is a good preventative measure for avoiding issues in the future, but I am more open to sharing what they ask to use.  My neurosis about MBs has to give way to letting them use my modem.  It also forces me to unplug for a while and talk to my host family, work on a horrible attempt at a scarf, actually work on my lessons, or study a bit. 

I’m off to Armenia on Friday, so I’m sure I will have more adventures to tell then. 

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