Thursday, February 16, 2012

A Post About More than Just the Coldest Winter in 40+ Years


I realize it has been a while.  It’s not that Georgia has not been interesting or I can’t think of things to write about. I’ve had several themes for this blog post but none of them seem appropriate when I actually think about writing.  So, here’s a blog post in search of a theme.

After being so cold that the whole country shut school down for 2 (or 2 ½, depending on how well your director regarded the “finish today” directive, which I don’t think mine ever got) days, it has finally gotten warmer, both in my school and in general.  The entire country did not need to shut down, as a friend in the west has only had rain, but my village needed it.  Of course, now things are starting to thaw…and refreeze, so I get ice, my favorite!  Not!  Still, the hope of positive temperatures is exciting, reminding me that this too shall pass, and there was a time in Georgia where I was not always freezing.  That day is a distant memory now but someday I will have it again.  Pictures of the cold are on Facebook.

The 2 days off school ruined my great intentions to stay in the village for the weekend, so I headed off on Friday to a gathering of volunteers in Kaspi, a small city that required me to go via Tbilisi, but was totally worth the 2 marshrutka rides.  I got a wonderful surprise in seeing one of my group members who lives in the west so I don’t see very often, as well as seeing a few other friends and making a few new ones.  It was nice to be in an apartment with other English speakers, a bit of normality.  Of course, when one of the hottest conversation topics was everyone’s water, or lack thereof, you can’t really forget you’re in Georgia. 

Actually, here’s a list of some of the most popular topics of conversation among my expat friends this winter:

1) The last time you showered
2) How cold it is in a)your school b)your village, and most importantly, c)your bed
3) The water situation where you live
4) How far your personal hygiene standards have fallen
5) Food you miss, which now includes any form of vegetables except potatoes

One of the signals that Georgia has made me far more outgoing is that I went to this apartment, having only met the couple who lived there the weekend before.  I met them because on our Facebook group they posted they needed a corkscrew and I offered one of my 2.  So, that seemed like enough of a reason to venture to an unknown city to meet 2 strangers, although I knew a bit about them from the wife’s posts on our Facebook group.  My gamble totally paid off, and I enjoyed both visits very much.

My other weekend adventures include frequenting Teremok, the Russian cuisine restaurant that is now my favorite place to eat in Tbilisi, venturing to Uplitsikhe (pictures on Facebook), an ancient cave village that was the center of the Kartli kingdom way back in the day, doing my laundry at a hostel in Tbilisi, watching in amazement as a Georgian man fixes my friend’s Macbook charger, indulging at the Gori cake house, and being envious of other friends who now live in their own apartment.

Oh, and a supra.  My host dad’s birthday was last Wednesday, so I was expecting a big feast.  On Monday, I was informed he and my host mom were headed to Tbilisi for a few days because he was having surgery on his leg (something to do with veins, maybe?).  He was not supposed to come back until Wednesday.  That day kept getting pushed back, but on Wednesday, he told us to go ahead and kill the pig.  The pig had recently had piglets and out of 12, only 2 survived the cold.  My host brothers cooked the piglet, and I thought that was that.  Then I heard a terrifying sound and went to investigate.  I resisted the urge to take pictures of the dead pig, so I will not be posting any pictures of blood-soaked snow anytime soon.  We made mtsvade (shish kebabs) and had a mini-supra in his honor.  A few friends who did not know he was gone came over, as a Georgian does not tell his friends to come celebrate his birthday, but they all know to come.  It was a fairly low-key affair.  On Sunday, my neighbor turned 16, so I went over for a supra.  Unfortunately for my ever-expanding waistline but great for my taste buds, I enjoyed a supra with the kids and then was graduated to the adult table, where one garrulous guest offered to be my godfather when he learned I didn’t have one.  I might have agreed, but I figure no one actually expects me to baptized in the village church anytime soon, so I think I’m safe.

At the supra, I finally started to appreciate that maybe TLG had a reason for placing me in Manglisi.  I’m always jealous when my friend on the Black Sea talks about his placement, since that’s where I wanted to be.  I always took for granted that I could get around speaking Russian in Georgia, despite having heard from some people that they had problems.  I knew that Manglisi used to have a lot of Russians, but I finally realized that is part of the reason I am able to get around so easily with my Russian.  My neighbor’s mother speaks atrocious Russian until she’s drunk, and she informed me that’s because she grew up in a pure Georgian village and so only learned Russian in school, while the majority of the people I interact with speak Russian quite comfortably, since the language is common in Manglisi.

I also should take this time to say a few words about the birthday girl, Mariami.   
She lives next door to us and is good friends with my host sister.  She first came into my life as the girl who ALWAYS had handfuls of sunflower seeds to offer me, whether I wanted them or not.  From what I can tell, they’re her favorite food, and she’s still frequently bringing them by.  She used to annoy me to no end as she always wanted to know what I was doing.  She also speaks about 3 words of English.  We frequently have conversations that go like this:

Mariami: Hello
Me: Hello.  How are you?
Mariami: Kargad.  Shen? (I’m well.  And you?)
Me: Good/Kargard. (I’m well.)

However, she’s starting to grow on me.  She got a camera for New Year’s so we’ve been going on walks in the snow, taking pictures.  She is incredibly persistent about speaking to me and asks me lots of questions, stretching my Georgian.  Half the time I have no idea, but it’s making me try.  And lately, she’s even been asking for English translations of things.

As far as Georgia making the news regarding the Israeli/Iran bomb issue, have no fear, I and everyone else in Georgia is fine.  I’m much safer here than in my neighborhood in St. Louis, although I’m sure several of you won’t be terribly comforted by that thought.

In other life news, I got an invitation to interview with Michigan!!  I was convinced it was not going to happen and was all set to go to Indiana, but it looks like it will be March before I know.  At least I feel justified in applying to Michigan now, even if they do reject me.

A neighbor just brought over some fresh homemade bread and a homemade cake.  God bless Georgia.

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