Tuesday, May 15, 2012

A Multicultural Existence


Oh, where to begin?  Less than five weeks left, the weather is gorgeous, I just spent the last 6 days having a great vacation out west and a bonus day in Tbilisi… 

So, here are a few scattered thoughts…

Wednesday was a holiday, so two friends and I took the rest of the week off to do some adventuring out west.  It was a great trip and showed me that trusting a 23-year old frat boy over my common sense sometimes leads to a great adventure instead of jail or death.  The trip will get its own blog entry later, but since I’m nearing the end, I’ve been doing more thinking and am starting to evaluate my year here, so you’re going to get another one of those blog entries.

One of the nights we were on a beach drinking and talking and I brought up something that had been bothering me since about my last blog entry.  All of my close friends here are expats.  This was also true in Russia, although I made some close Russian friends.  Why do I feel so compelled to travel halfway around the world to a foreign language and culture just to make friends with other people like me?  They told me it was normal. 

It came up a few days later with a friend from South Africa.  She pointed out that being here lets us meet people from other parts of the Western world we never would have met otherwise and would not have made friends with.  She has a good friend she met in Georgia who is from England, so now they both have an impetus to visit a country that previously held no interest for them.  Even the Americans I’m friends with probably would not have become friends, and certainly not good friends, back in America. 

Another friend recently wrote on the Facebook group page frequented by TLGers, asking if people who had eschewed laptops and ereaders had really felt that they had gained more by doing so, since connections with home make it harder to make connections here.  While everyone who answered obviously leads a wired Georgian life, all the responses echoed the sentiment that people got plenty of Georgian culture.  Obviously I’m not the only one who has been wondering about the expat bubble vs. Georgian immersion experience.

While I may not be immersing myself 24/7 in Georgian culture, I’ve gotten a multicultural experience.  I’m slowly learning Australian slang and realizing how wrong they speak English in England.  My knowledge of Singapore has grown exponentially and I’ve realized how different America does certain things from other parts of the West.  It’s made me much prouder to be from America, as I’ve defended certain aspects of American culture that seem strange to my friends but I hold much nearer and dearer than I thought.  Conversations about the Constitution, including incredulity that Britain exists without one and a conversation about the Supreme Court that ended at 5:30am, have made me appreciate the brilliancy of that document and how it has helped shape our national character.  There are plenty of things about America and Americans that drive me crazy, but there’s plenty that we’ve done well as well.

For Cinco de Mayo, my Peace Corps friend, Australian friend, and Singapore friend cooked food for about 20 people to celebrate.  It was a great snapshot of what this year has been.  We had a token American of Mexican descent to add some legitimacy to the event, but mostly we had a bunch of Americans and a few people other nationalities, including a few Georgians and Armenians, enjoying good burritos and stir fry (don’t ask).  I got to make guacamole and we made “sopeli sangria”, as one friend dubbed the village wine sangria we made (sopeli is Georgian for village).  Ten of us ended the night chatting on the rooftop of the hostel, overlooking the city and watching fireworks and paper lanterns float across the skyline while chatting.  It was a night I will remember for a long, long time, and one of the reasons I will miss Georgia so much, getting to spend quality time with so many interesting people with so many different reasons for coming to Georgia and views on life.

After the party, I felt I had to do something related to Georgian culture so finally made my way to the National museum.  Basically there is a floor dedicated to the Soviet Occupation and one dedicated to all the sweet stuff they’ve dug up around Georgia.  The Soviet Occupation museum made me consider for the first time the independent Georgia that existed between 1918 and1921.  While the Red Army had little trouble taking over Georgia, the museum catalogs other heinous deeds of the Soviets: the poets and writers shot, the thousands killed, the struggles to retain Georgian culture and language, the war against religion, and other crimes of the Soviets.  There are letters begging other nations for help, including one from the Khevsurs (a group of people in a remote mountain part of Georgia) pleading with the US government for help as the Soviets were forbidding them from practicing their religion and traditional way of life and vowing that they would fight until the last Khevsur was killed against the Soviets.  I’m sure they got no response.

The basement is a completely different story, filled with gold, silver, and other exquisite treasures dating back centuries.  Ancient Georgia was alive and well, trading with far-flung places in the known world.  It was nice to follow up a sorrowful visit with an appreciation of beauty and human craftsmanship.  The pieces were all amazing, some incredibly detailed, most well preserved.

Speaking of jewelry, I’ve acquired a ring that has become one of my favorite pieces of Georgia.  No, not that kind of ring, although I did get it from a man in my village.  A few weeks ago, I went to wait for my marshrutka to Tbilisi for the weekend.  I started talking to the woman who sold me the ticket and another old man who was waiting.  They figured out who I was, asked me all the usual questions like do I like Georgia and why don’t I get married to a Georgian.  He then told me he wanted to give me a gift.  After so many months in Georgia, this did not make me feel weird or guilty, as I regularly get things like flowers or candy now.  (Yeah, getting lilacs from students and random kids on the street is pretty awesome, in case you wanted to know.)  He then started taking a ring off his key ring and I thought it was going to be some stupid key ring like we have back home.  He told me it was silver and handed me a twisted silver ring that could or could not be real, but it is still something I treasure since he gave it to me simply so that I would think Georgians were hospitable.  Georgians may drive me crazy with a lot of their ideas and ways, but their hospitality is really incredible. 

The old man then told me that the Georgian language was the easiest language in the world to learn.  I tried to suggest that maybe that’s because he was Georgian, but he was adamant that it was an unbiased fact.  I decided not to argue the matter since I knew he was wrong and he knew he was right.  And it reminded me of the double-edged sword that is Georgia.  Of course, I don’t even know if I got his name, but I’ll remember him for sure.

I think I’ve expressed to many of you that I’ll be ready to go home when I go.  I’ve got several amazing adventures left, have loved Georgia, but I’m ready to go home for a while.  Part of it is that I long to cook my own meals made up mostly of veggies, go to the bathroom where the neighbors don’t know that’s what I’m doing, and just be me.  Another part is that the internet can only do such a good job of communicating the joys and sorrows of friends and family back home.  While I’ve had so many wonderful experiences here, there are ones I would have liked to have been a part of back home, for better or worse.  I’ve realized that there has been an emotional and relational cost of my penchant for strange countries.  I’m not saying I’m close to hanging up my hat, but I’m looking forward to sitting tight for a while and hoping for lots of visitors in Bloomington.

While that would be a good place to end this blog, I won’t.  I have to write about how lovely spring has made everything.  I am surrounded by green.  It is lush and lovely, and I am constantly stunned by the beauty of the earth in my little region of the world.  While I don’t love the 90 minute rides on Georgian marshrutkas that take me to Tbilisi every weekend, they give me at least 50 minutes to gaze on absolute loveliness, especially on Sunday evenings as the sun sets over the mountains or the valley is submerged in fog.  I love my Midwestern cornfields, but the sights of the area around Manglisi remind me again and again of the Georgian legend that God had reserved this place for himself.

So while on vacation, I left behind my laptop and found my phone only worked as an alarm (which I needed far too much for a vacation).  The 5 days free of connection to the outside world was a lot easier than I thought it would be.  Granted, I was too busy exploring, but it was a reminder that I need to unplug every once in a while since I am tethered to my computer so much.  When I got back to Tbilisi, too late to go home to the village due to our bus breaking down, I stayed the night at a hostel and used a friends’ internet connection.  I had a lot of unread emails but only a few important ones.  My Facebook account had weathered my absence just fine.  Without my laptop to write down thoughts, I had actually written in my travel journal, which is still not full after 5 years and 3 trips to the former USSR.  That night, having no computer or exhaustion to lull me to sleep, I borrowed a book from the hostel.  Having no real agenda for the next day, I sat on an outdoor couch, sipped tea, and finished the book.  It was an easy read, but the feeling of simply sitting and reading was absolutely delightful, and it had been so long since I had lost myself in a book like that.  Monday as a whole was a mental health day that worked wonders, but the experience also reminded me of what my life was like before it was invaded by the internet.  Of course, today, I’ve been tethered to my computer, so maybe the lesson isn’t quite fully learned.

Also, my workweek is about to get even shorter.  Yes, that is possible.  Apparently the ministry lets the 12th grade out a few weeks early to study for the big national exam.  That’s understandable and should save my mother from having to yell at my sister each morning to get out of bed.  The ministry also lets the first graders out after this week.  I don’t really know why, and neither did my co-teacher when I asked her, but I think it has been like that for a while.  I can’t say I’m disappointed, as I don’t hate the class, but I also can’t say I’ve been that effective there.  Some of them are super cute, though.  But now I’ll be able to sleep in on Thursdays.  I can see the cute kids when I roam the streets instead.

Oh, and my upper grades are finally getting past the verb “to be” and into action verbs.  I like that a lot.  Taking a page from my high school German teacher’s handbook, I’ve made the kids do motions for the verbs to help them remember it.  I think they like it.  I also get a kick out of making them bark and meow and flap their wings like a bird.  I taught my 6th graders Simon Says, and they now beg to play the game every class.  It makes me feel like I’ve done something I came here to do-teach them English, give them a slice of American culture, get them to remember something in English, and enjoy it.

No comments:

Post a Comment